The Tekno EB48.4 4WD Competition 1/8 Electric Buggy Kit once again raises the bar in the 1/8 e-buggy class. Tekno has improved on nearly every aspect of the buggy with a variety of fine adjustments, and a leap in overall performance. These changes feed into Tekno's desire to manufacture the best handling, most consistent, most durable, and highest value kit on the market. Tekno is confident that you will agree that they have delivered on these goals.
NOTE: Electronics, painted body, tires and wheels shown in photos are for illustrative purposes only and are not included. See needed to complete list below for a full list of items required to complete the model.
- CNC 7075 Chassis with Improved Wear Characteristics
- Revised Steering Geometry and Ackermann Plate
- Bearing Supported Spindle/Carrier Design
- Revised Wide Rear Pivot Suspension Geometry
- Ultra Efficient Drivetrain with New Universal Driveshafts
- Revised Internal Gear Ratio for Improved Efficiency
- CNC Aluminum 16mm Shocks with CNC Pistons and Guides
- CNC 7075 Aluminum Emulsion Bleeder Shock Caps
- LF (low frequency) Shock Springs
- Fighter Jet Inspired Body Design
- Low Profile Multi-Adjustable Wing Mount System
- Lightened Drivetrain and Suspension Components
- Shares Many Parts with other Tekno RC Vehicles
Length: 435mm (without wing)
Width: 306-310*mm (*optional hubs required)
Weight: 3200g (7.0lb) (RTR weight equipped w/ Tekin RX8, 500g battery, rx, etc)
Diff Ratio: F/R – 12/40t, Center – 44t
Battery tray dimensions: 50x148mm (2x2s or 1x4s config)
Needed to Complete:
- 2/3 channel radio/transmitter
- 1/8 scale ESC and motor system
- High torque steering servo (at least 300oz/in)
- MOD1 15 to 25 tooth pinion (TKR4175 – TKR4185)
- 4-6s LiPo battery (4s at least 5000mAh)
- 1/8th scale buggy tires, wheels & CA glue
- Paint for body
This product was added to our catalog on April 4, 2017
Where EB48.4 and I fell out.
lightweight drive shaft is easily bent if chassis flexes too much which can occur if centre chassis brace is removed. $18 per bend
Motor mount sticks and required a diff seal to fix the issue. The two pieces have a lot of play making gear mesh difficult.
Very tight layout limits ESC options, my Vortex Pro almost had the wires burnt through due to bent drive shaft. No M4 mount option for Team Orion motors. Used a flat drill bit to fix that.
Narrow chassis is heavier yet flexes more than MP9E. Tekno has a flat chassis, MP9E is flat except the sides curl thereby providing much greater stiffness.
shocks are great but long and not as protected from impacts. This buggy jumps and lands like a cat but two of the shocks have sprung slow leaks - front and rear. Lots of forum chat about bent rods. $5 per bend. More money again if you wish to option the coated shafts (these do little to improve performance and the coating wears off)
D block - longer this version. Issue: hangs out from chassis, less protected and greater lever action on screws, scalloped to reduce weight but compromised strength (yet still heavier than MP9 block). With beefy A arms that won't give, strong hinge pins and pills, the blocks are the weakest part in the suspension link. Heavy crash the blocks will bend - $20 to get the strengthened M2C block.
poor plastic quality. After 6 race meets the A arms looks like I've belted them repeatedly with an axe. My longer term Losi has minor scratches and done far more work. The plastic can be easily stripped and difficult to screw in and out - the manual warns you in some areas but apply that warning to every plastic component. The plastic is very durable in that it will bend a lot before it breaks but allow to buy a hudy reamer $20 or for the brave use a drill bit. Note: it will remove material quickly. Having to ream the A Arms because Tekno can't get their moulds/plastic right is unacceptable. The MP9E hinge pins fall through effortlessly right out of the box with very little play and plastic strength is incredible.
Option the aluminium centre diff mount. Again, plastic is rubbish and another additional expense
bearings galore. additional bearings in the steering components offer no advantage but they're a PITA to service.
grub screws galore. You don't realize how many there are till servicing the buggy and have to clean these with a dental pick in order to remove. I also question their benefit. Servicing takes me twice as long than the Losi.
Tekno's desire to manufacture the best handling, most consistent, most durable, and highest value kit on the market.
No mention of quality in their own statement and it shows. By comparison the MP9E is outstanding and the Losi in between the two.
The Tekno feels like a pumped up 1-10 scale and best suited for carpet or non-abrasive surfaces. The losi and MP9E are natural 1-8 off roaders. The tekno is fast, maybe the fastest but I liken it to an early model Nissan GTR: very quick but repeatability and quality compared to a Porsche 911 just isn't there. it's more about gizmos than engineering that's been refined over decades.
Add the spare parts I've expended and the issues I've had my humble view is:
For $150 more the Kyosho is a better buggy, this is the Porsche 911 Turbo of my 3 buggies.
Would I recommend the Tekno? Indoors and drivers who seldom end up on their lid - yes. Basher-Beginner-outdoor abrasive tracks no. But why limit your options.
From the get-go I was not nice to this buggy. The day I built it I sprayed up the body as a one-color-wonder and threw it on the track before putting in a single practice lap. During the first qual both rear shocks blew out and half the screws on the car backed out at least partially and several were lost completely. My inexperience as a kit builder was showing, but determined to continue I rebuilt the rear shocks and bought replacement screws and headed back in to the second qual. Both rear shocks blew out again, but I didn't lose any more screws and only a few backed out a little. After rebuilding the rear shocks again (properly this time) and tightening everything back up I hit the main as TQ in the sportsman class and went on to take 1st in my class.
All these months later the track has been through a few more track changes and I've continued to improve my driving immensely thanks to this buggy's durability keeping me putting down laps. Just a couple of weeks ago I finally replaced the chassis (that honestly didn't really need it, I just didn't want to look at the scratches anymore), and just this last Saturday finally did any kind of maintenance (replacing diff/shock oil, cleaning parts, new hinge pins, etc). This came about because after my second ever qual in the open class I pulled it off the track only to realize that there was only one bolt holding on the front shock tower. But like a complete champ the buggy had pulled through and I had qualified 5th in a fairly large field in my first outing in the open class at my local track. Only the rear portion of the front diff casing broke where one of the top-most screws went in. I've since run it like that several times without issues.
I've spent the last few weeks contemplating moving to a "better" platform, and after talking to many very talented drivers I've arrived at the conclusion that while there are more race-oriented buggies out there that push the envelope of what is possible, until you've gotten to the point that you are trying to run in the open class in series races and/or you start travelling for bigger races, Tekno's offering is more than capable of running with the rest of the pack, and even then with a proper setup (which can be admittedly a little difficult on this platform) it can still run with the big boys.
My local track is known for eating cars alive. The packed clay is filled with sand and you can watch sparks fly off of your car every time you hit a jump. In the cold it eats plastic parts without mercy. Despite all of this I have yet to bend a shock shaft, legitimately wear out a chassis, break any plastic part (except due to negligence and lack of maintenance). During my complete break-down and cleaning I replaced the following parts: Front hinge pins (one slightly bent, one with a major bend), and inner wheel bearings (worn out, but not dead. Replaced because I was there). The car was still functioning perfectly.
In short, I love this buggy, and I think it's a great place to start for anyone wanting to get into racing more seriously from any level other than absolute pro.
Some tips if you are going to run this car:
1. Make sure you get the updated upper shock mounts. The old version is known to wear through the aluminum shock caps. For a budget fix simply take the plastic spacers out and use a small piece of nitro tubing in its place. Change if shocks ever get loose on the mount.
2. Remove the motor from the mount every few races and clean well to prevent sticking. If stuck, gently wiggle back and forth while applying firm but gentle pressure to remove it. Forcing it is not necessary. This is common to many cars with similar mounts.
3. Zip-tie around the ESC mounting plate and ESC to help it from coming off, or use a high-quality mounting tape (Kyosho or Gorilla Heavy Duty mounting tape works well) and make sure to use an adhesion promoter pen on both parts before adhering.
4. If you run on a high-abrasion surface track make sure you get rear skid plates. Tekno also makes a front bumper with an integrated skid plate. Skid plates are much cheaper than chassis!
5. The .4 aluminum shock caps like to break loose. Make sure you tighten down firmly using your Tekno shock wrench (or similar) and a driver through the cap (don't use pliers on the cap).
6. This is more general knowledge, but helped me immensely: before using loc-tite on screws going into metal, spray them with MAF cleaner (available at any auto parts store), electronics cleaner (available at Frys or any other electronics store) or any other cleaner containing heptane, hexane, and/or acetone and clean vigorously with a rag or shop towel. Screws ship with machining oil on them that wont come off even after months of use without a proper cleaning, making loc-tite ineffective at securing them.