Team Line B5 .21 Off-Road Competition Buggy Engine (Turbo) by Werks
This is the Werks Racing Team Line B5 .21 Off-Road Turbo Plug Buggy Engine. This engine is known for making amazing low end power, with great top end performance and incredible runtime! After months of exhaustive testing under grueling racing conditions Werks Racing is pleased to announce the release of it's new Team Line B5 .21 racing engine! Utilizing Werks Racing's first ever 5+2 port sleeve design, the B5 engine has been designed from the ground up to provide the maximum amount of performance, run time and drive-ability at an amazingly affordable price! The B5 has already been proven in actual racing conditions even before it was released with Werks team driver Jeremy Kortz using a single, final specification B5 engine to take 2nd place at the RC Pro Series Australia race, as well as a A-main finish at the 2009 ROAR US Buggy Nationals!
The B5 engine features Werks Racing's unique "Team Line" split transfer case design with their signature stiffening ribs around the sleeve area of the case to control expansion. The 5+2 port, ABC construction sleeve and high-silicon aluminum alloy piston have been hand matched for optimum performance and life span. This engine also features a 7075 T6 knife edged connecting rod, a 2 needle carburetor with adjustable venturi (7mm stock), as well as high quality "Swiss" racing bearings, a turbo head button and a CNC machined & lightened, low CG cooling head design! This engine is packed full of features that are normally set aside for much more expensive models and at a price that is comparable to a sport level engine. Performance, affordability, longevity...Get Werks, or get worked!
NOTE: The Werks B5 now includes the re-designed "2010 Model" Werks Carburetor. The "2010 Model" Carburetor is a completely re-designed aluminum carburetor that has been developed and tested over the last 2 years in real world racing conditions. This aluminum body carburetor features a two needle design, and a carburetor neck insulator, to provide a more stable tune, idle, simplified adjustment and a greater level of consistency compared to the carburetor that was previously included with the B5. This carburetor uses re-designed venturi inserts compared to the previous composite carburetor, so the venturi's intended for use with the composite carburetor are not compatible with this model.
RPM Range: 3,000 to 39,000
Output: 2.6ps at 33,000 rpm
Sleeve: Five Port, Chrome Plated Brass
Piston: CNC Machined High-Silicon Aluminum Alloy
Connecting Rod: Double bushed made with special 7075 T6 aluminum alloy
Carburetor: Aluminum 2 needle with adjustable venturi (7mm stock).
Cooling Head: CNC Machined, lightened, low CG design
This product was added to our catalog on August 13, 2009.
1) Normal operating temperature would be between 210 to around 250'ish degree's. I'm quoting a 40+ degree operating window because there are again quite a range of variable that can affect this i.e. weather, plug choice, pipe, track size and most definitely fuel choice. Having said that temp is secondary! Always tune your engine to get the performance that you are looking for while making sure that you are still blowing some smoke. No smoke = you are going to have a problem. Once you get your engine set with the performance that you like, take the temp and then you can use that as a reference point down the road to quickly set your motor in the range that you lik.
2) The infamous break in question lol! We're a racing company and make engines for racers, what I have found is that talk to 4 different racers and you will get 4 different opinions on how to do it lol! You wanted a detailed answer though so let the book writing begin lol!
The way that I normal do it is to set the HS needle to flush with the end of the housing and then with the air filter off, fire it up and leave it on the box. Blip the throttle a couple of times and then let it come back down to idle. Then I start to screw in the idle stop screw until I see around a 2-2.5mm air gap (opening on the slide). When you are doing this your idle speed will start to increase so you are basically going to have to start richening your low speed needle a couple of hours (until you get a smooth, steady idle) then do a couple of hours on the idle stop screw and back and forth until you see the 2-2.5mm+ air gap that I mentioned. As this is a two stroke engine, performance is always dictated by air/fuel ratio and as we are now talking about the low speed needle (remember we set the HS needle flush with the end of the housing and there is no need to touch this again for a while) if you have too much fuel (rich setting) you will have a low idle, if you have too little fuel (lean setting) you will have a high idle). It basically is a no brainer if you are too rich or lean because your engine will tell you!
Once you get a steady idle going with the large air gap that I mentioned (large air gap means a lot of air flow, to get a steady idle means that to compensate you will have to dump a lot of fuel through the engine= guaranteed rich condition and you can not damage your engine right off the bat by being too lean) I idle it through the first tank on the box. This is done basically to pump a lot of oil through the engine to flush out any metal particles in the engine and remove the minute bit of metal particles that are always released initially during break in.
Now with the radio gear on, engine off and the slide closed look down the throat of the carb and slowly start to pull the trigger. Take note of the how much throttle you are giving at the point that the low speed needle (which is connected to the slide) comes out of the spray bar (the hollow tube) on the opposite side of the carb. We will use this as a referance for tuning later on but basically what is happening is that during the range of throttle movement that the low speed needle is embedded in the spray bar, the low speed needle will affect fuel delivery (for the purist we both know that this is a simplified explanation as the fuel first travels through the HS needle circuit before going to the LS but since we already set the HS to a rich setting and will not be touching this for a while it's pretty much a mute point). At the point that it is out of the spray bar the fuel delivery (or tune) is affected solely by the high speed needle.
Then I re-install the air filter, fire up the engine and toss it on the ground. Start slowly doing figure eights at say 3 to 4 mph until you run through the tank. Then for the next tank i fire the engine up again and back the idle screw out a couple of hours. You will immediately hear the idle speed start to reduce, to compensate for this I then lean the low speed needle a couple of hours until I again hear a smooth steady idle. Once I have this I then start doing figure eights again but now a little bit fasted until the tank is empty. Next tank fire up the engine, back idle screw out a couple of hours, lean LS needle a couple of hours, do figure eights a couple of mph faster.
Basically what I'm doing with this system is slowly reducing the amount of lubricant being pumped through the engine while at the same time slowly increasing the amount of load that is being put on the engine. This I keep on repeating until I get to approximately the point that I'm pulling the trigger far enough that I know the low speed needle is being pulled out of the spray bar (remember we checked this initially while we had the air filter off) at which point your air gap (the amount the slide is help open by the idle stop screw) will have been reduced to aprox. 1-1.5mm.
Once we get to this point we now need to be concerned about the HS needle. What I then do is re-fuel and fire the vehicle up, putt it around for a couple of minutes to heat saturate the case and the chassis and then do a quick high speed run around the track (do not hold it maxed out for a long time on the straight, this is bad). I pull it back in, temp the engine and adjust the HS needle so that I see right around 200 degrees. Then let the engine drop back down to idle and see how the idle performance looks. If the idle is now fast (it has now increased) this means that you need to richen your low speed needle (for the amount of air flowing into the engine, there is too little fuel flowing into it = lean condition) don't touch the idle screw just the LS needle. If the idle is low this means that you now need to lean your low speed needle (for the amount of air flowing into the engine there is too much fuel flowing into it = rich condition) again don't touch the idle screw.
Then I toss the car on the track for another 6-8 tanks with the engine running around 200 degrees as explained above running close to race speed but rolling off the throttle mid way down the straight. Once I'm done with the 6-8 tanks doing this we would have run around 12 to 15 tanks total through the engine in all of the steps above. I now consider the engine pretty much broken in and I'll get close to race tune on the HS setting the engine around 220 degrees. Again check to see what happens to the idle speed and adjust your low speed needle to compensate if it is high or low. Run a further 6 or so tanks through the engine driving it as you normally would and you are good to go to full race tune which will be in the 220 to say mid 240'ish range and I would consider the engine broken in and ready to be pounded on.
A long explanation but using this system helps avoid one of the most common mistakes faced by newer tuners which is setting their low speed needle too lean because they have too little air gap (the carb is hardly open help open by the idle stop screw so to compensate they set the LS needle super lean easily causing damage to the engine).
I also like to use this system because I often end up tuning and/or breaking in a lot of different types of engine with people. Using this system i never even worry about knowing what the factory needle settings are or anything along those lines. I just set the HS and LS flush with the end of the housing, set the air gap so that the slide is open 1-1.5mm and fire the engine up. How it idles immediately tells me if the LS needle is too lean or rich so I set this, then check the temp after a high speed run, adjust the HS needle to be in the 220'ish range, check idle speed and set LS so that it is smooth and steady and the engine is ready to go. Takes about 4-5 minutes total on an engine that could be completely out of whack and I've never even seen or ran before lol!
3) Ours, Sirio and possibly some of the Orion ones I would think.
4) Again we did all of our testing with our own pipes i.e. the 2013 and 3014 (3 chamber pipe) but I would start out with the JP3 initially and then test the others. The JP 4 and I'm assuming the 3023 are 3 chamber pipes so these will probably be more restrictive slightly reducing the power band but increasing the fuel economy so depending on what organization you run under (i.e. if use of these pipes is required) and if you feel the engine is over powered for you these can also be a worth while item to test.
Hope this helps!
Werks Racing -//- the 2057 will give you like 30 to 45 sec. extra according to your tuning more time, down side will loose a little of bottom. Will reach the 11min mark. Now, I have 6 gallons in mine B5 only thing that I change is the plugs. I just opened to inspect the internals, nothing wromg, rod still with a very impresive clearance. everything like new. I guess all comes down to maintenance. Very impressive with this engine. -//- I have one of the new B5 2010 edition. This thing is a animal in the bottom end great mid and scream in all the way to the top. Run time is awesome, I got 9.30min. with a 2013 pipe and a OD97T glow plug. I can even compared it with a electric that how insane is the bottom end and in the top end have a LOT of speed, Last time I know the Vspec couldn't catch me in the drag (175ft long). Brake in was easy no need for a rod after brake it like others. I have 2 gallons of 30% Werks and this mill. Is on the spot at @ 230-240 temp. It turns a lot of head people asking what it is. There is a Lot of info on RCTech. And last, The customer support it is top notch, Ron is in the ball with his customers, very personal support, that type of actitud finish the deal. Werks B5 is a Home Run in my book. I will order a second eng. for spare. The engine have a 5 stars and 5 stars for Customer support. Thanks Ron.)
So, I'm disappointed, guys. It have lots of top end with 2058 exhaust and good bottom till it cold.
2-3min on track and it starts too slow. Instead of going straight to high RPM in 1 sec, it takes 3+seconds and 5+m of track to start moving with full power.
I've read all possible manuals and found that it's like my Low needle very rich with high level of Idle needle (that keeps my motor working). I fixed it very caredully (also took cold glow plug, 6.5mm carb restrictor and 30% nitro fuel), but that issue was not completely solved. And I try to lean low needle more and more by 1h every time. After 1 hour on track it was almost OK except that my pipe was making 1-2 smoke rings ^_^ on every straight section.
I've checked temp, it was 140C° on idling... I've made HighRPM needle reacher and try my tuning. It again had not enougth middle rpm power.
After all it broke connecting rod, and I will try another brand for my truck now.
May be for buggy it's OK, but for truggy on narrow and slow track it's terrible.)