Simply put: Ford® GT is one of the coolest street cars ever designed, and PROTOform is proud to bring it to 190mm Touring Cars for USGT-Class racing.
From the ultra-low stance, to the teardrop-shaped cockpit, to the never-before-seen b-pillar “side wings”, the Ford® GT is the ultimate expression of form following function. PROTOform has captured every detail of this mid-engine sportscar that captured GT class wins at the 2016 24h of Le Mans and back-to-back 24h of Daytona in 2017 and 2018.
This officially-licensed body fits 1:10 190mm touring cars, with extra clearances built-in to fit over the front and rear shock towers. Ford® GT's distinctive side wings are add-on pieces that can be secured with the included hardware, shoo-goo or high-strength double-sided tape. New lighter-weight material lowers the center of gravity of your USGT car, improving responsiveness.
Each body also includes injection molded nylon wing struts, a unique rear wing, decal sheet, window masks, and overspray film.
- Perfectly suited for USGT Class
- Distinctive add-on side wings
- Exceptional scale detail
- Molded wing struts
- Officially-licensed by Ford
- Proudly Made in the USA
Length: 17.25" (438mm)
Width: 7.6" (192.5mm)
Height: 3.89" (99mm)
Wheelbase: 10.2" (258mm)
- Ford GT Clear Body
- B-pillar side wings (2 pcs)
- Side wing mounting hardware (16 pcs)
- Nylon wing struts (2 pcs)
- Extensive Decal sheet
- Wing mounting hardware (4 pcs)
- Window Masks
- Paint-then-peel overspray film
NOTE: Completed and painted model shown for illustrative purposes only and is not included.
This product was added to our catalog on August 22, 2018
-Doesn't feel flimsy
-No pre-cut decals, except for window masks
-Decals are low quality images
-No decal for window or windshield trim
-No dimple on body to mark where rear shoulders get mounted (the separated shoulder pieces have dimples, but you have to take a little extra time to mark on the body where they align, and this creates an uneven/non-symmetrical finish)
-Body was uneven when I was done painting and trying to mount (rear bumper showed it was angled slightly one way, but the angle over the engine cover showed something different like the body was warped in the back). This is not noticeable at all from any normal view, but when you're up close trying to match the height of each corner this is something I saw.
This is the first body I've painted in over 10 years. My original R/C was a HPI Nitro RS4 2 and I used HPI bodies. So I'm expecting R/C bodies to have the same decal print quality as before, with fitment and pre-cut decals. Why are we downgrading 15 years later and selling the bodies at a higher price? I did use the magnetic body posts to mark the mounting spots. I probably should've marked them, not cut, before I painted. I got the rear 100% spot on, but the front is shifted off about 1-2mm. I'm thinking about rounding the holes to be able to bettter center the front.
I painted with Tamiya Light Green, used the entire can (paint wasn't solid green, but coverage was even), backed with white to help make it brighter, then backed with black because I don't like the backing to be any other color. I was worried it would be too green, but after applying decals and using my anodized orange wheels and another set of plastic gunmetal wheels I have to say the car looks great either way. I did paint the entire front lip black and painted the horizontally flat trim along the bottom of the doors black. Would probably look perfect if it had black window trim, but overall it looks great.
OT: I did have to buy a second body as the first was ruined using Duratrax Paint. I was going to give it an OEM Ford GT Carbon look (gunmetal with two black stripes down center and a red pinstripe in-between the black stripes) but the gunmetal spray starting spitting and ended up everywhere. Blotches on car body, on arm, on shirt sleeve, on finger where nozzle was at. I tried preheating the cans in warm water and shaking vigorously for even longer than usual, but I had the gunmetal spit on the body and a lime pearl spit on a test sheet prior to painting this second body. I really wanted to use lime pearl backed with white, but since that failed I bought Tamiya Light Green locally. I am beyond paranoid about using the rest of the Duratrax paints and will seek a refund. All 3 Tamiya cans just took a regular 1 minute shake and sprayed on so evenly and perfect.