22T 2.0 1/10 2WD Electric Racing Truck Kit by Team Losi Racing
This product was added to our catalog on April 1, 2015.
This is the TLR 22T 2.0 1/10 Scale 2WD Electric Racing Truck Kit. The 22T 2.0 Race Kit continues to build on the championship-winning TLR 22 platform with features that make it easy to drive fast and have fun. Updates include advanced suspension geometry adapted from the 22 2.0 buggy, a bell-crank steering system, Gen II shocks with X-ring seals and a thoroughly refined ball differential with tungsten carbide diff balls. You also get popular option parts as well as hardware for both mid- and rear-motor configurations.
Designed for Durability
A main focus of the 22T 2.0 platform design is durability. Composite components are 15% beefier than most off-road race kits and aluminum parts are used in all the critical areas to reduce wear and the likelihood of costly repairs.
Gen II 12mm Big Bore Shocks
The Gen II shocks keep operating friction to a minimum without leaking or weeping oil. This keeps suspension response consistent and significantly reduces maintenance. They deliver a plush ride near the top of their travel but still provide plenty of bottoming resistance when landing big jumps. Updated parts include:
- Longer shock bodies and shafts for increased suspension travel
- CNC machined 2-hole 1.5mm and 1.6mm pistons
- CNC machined O-ring and guide bushings
- Updated silicone X-ring seals
- Ti-Carbo-nitride coated shock shafts
- Aluminum bleeder screw shock caps
- Updated suspension geometry
- 22™ 2.0 caster blocks with 22T™ 2.0-specific spindles
- Wider rear arms for easier direction changes
- Gen II shocks with machined piston and x-ring seals
- Bell crank steering system for smoother response at every speed
- Hard-anodized 7075-T6 aluminum chassis
- Updated ball differential with tungsten carbide balls and larger diff rings
- TiCN shock shaft, inner hinge pins, and outer threaded hinge pins
- Adjustable, hard-mount battery holder
- Aluminum rear camber block
- Narrower rear hex with less wheel off-set
- Aluminum ball stud washers throughout
- Mid- and rear-motor mount parts included
- Metric hardware
- 22T 2.0 body
Type: Stadium Truck
Length: 15.75 in (400mm)
Width: 12.72 in (323.2mm)
Height: 5.63 in (143mm)
Wheelbase: 11.3–11.41 in (286–290mm)
Chassis: 2.5mm 7075-T6 Aluminum
Suspension: Lower A-Arm, Upper Adjustable Link
Motor or Engine: 540 size
Speed Control: Not included
Servos: Not included
Gear Pitch: 48-pitch
Wheel Size: 2.2×1.89 in (56×48mm)
Shock Type: 12mm Big Bore, Oil Filled
Body: 22T Body, unpainted poly carbonate
Ball Bearings: Full Rubber Sealed Ball Bearings
Experience Level: Advanced
Recommended Environment: Outdoor
Assembly Time: 3-5 Hours
Is Assembly Required: Yes
Needed to Complete:
- 2 Channel Surface Radio System (Minimum)
- 1/10 ESC, Motor & Pinion Gear
- High Speed Servo
- 2S LiPo Battery & Compatible Charger
- Polycarbonate Paint for Bodies
- 2.2 1/10 Truck Tires & CA Glue
....UPDATE:.... There is now a better wing for mid motor, i would go ahead and upgrade to the thick lexan wing part #TLR330005 , also their is an issue with the stock slipper clutch, I now have the adjustment nut tightened all the way down but the clutch still slips more than I like, went ahead and upgraded to the Avid Triad slipper clutch as I got tired of fooling with the stock clutch.
....UPDATE:.... After installing the avid Triad slipper and running a few packs on high traction track, I have stripped two plastic Idler gears, new aluminum idlers OTW, will update if I find any more weak points.)
Box setup is absolutely perfect in rear motor nothing to change but in mid motor the battery compartment is extremely difficult to swap out battery packs.
I race this truck in the mod truck class and it's super competitive against the mid motor trucks I definitely won't be selling this truck for a long time to come.)
The four gear trans is a farce at best. The plastic idlers are not durable in the very least, and my collection of broken gears says so. And with the metal gears the friction in the tranny absorbs quite a bit of power though the metal idlers seem to run smoother. The three gear conversion is the only way to go, and this thing should never have been sent into production with such a lousy gear box.
The ball diff is in constant need of a rebuild. My AE stuff has never given the problems this thing has concerning the ball diff. Last I remember a ball diff this lousy was in an XTM X-Cellerator I had.
The build was OK for the most part except two things. Several of the fasteners fit so tight I had to use some lube to get them to thread into the plastic without squeaking and being borderline stripped out. I even had to heat a couple places to soften the plastic enough to get the screws to thread in. I backed out a couple of screws after installing them trying "work" the holes out, and the heat generated from the friction was unbelievable. I also had to dremel out the corner of the transmission cause my diff gear was rubbing internally.
On a high note, the shocks are some of the best out there. They went together well, and are constructed probably the best material available. Everything from titanium nitride coated shafts to "x" ring seals, they are truly some of the best. The manual is pretty straight forward and easy to understand with no mistakes. The ball cups, tie rods/links, all these components are tough and require the easiest of assembly.
It handles pretty good out of the box, but I ended up with red rear springs and 1.7 MM pistons up front, and 1.6 mm in the rear. Removed the camber link shims from the front hubs, and moved the rear hubs to their forward position.
In rear motor configuration, the truck jumps and lands second to none, and still has plenty of steering if you make a few changes. The rear wants to come around if you try carry too much momentum through wider sweeping turns, and still requires a bit of patience in tighter, technical slow turns.
The three gear transmission is a must. Especially if you are a spec racer. Mine jumped with a little bit of a nose down attitude, but not so much with the three gear. The motor is moved rearward slightly with the three gear, and seems to not rob any power due to friction loss vs the four gear. The truck squares up quicker coming out of turns, brakes better going into turns, and though doesn't launch as well as in rear motor configuration, actually lands better. I can drive more aggressively coming out of the turn without the rear trying to come around. And if it does try to come around, it corrects easier and quicker. Also with the motor moved more rearward, I no longer have a need for the rear weight, and I went from a 2mm kick up shim to a 1mm, and still have better forward bite than the four gear did with rear weight and the 2mm kick up shim.
All in all I want to give at least a three star, maybe even four, considering the point my 22t is at now. but I honestly can't. I had to put alot of effort into the assembly to get the transmission right and deal with the extremely tight fitting screws. That, and along with the poorly thought out transmission and battery tray leave it with some things to be desired when stacked up against Kyosho's and AE's stadium trucks. A mid motor three gear transmission in the box, and at least a practical battery tray that could easily be switched between battery types having to reconfigure your electronics layout would have easily placed this truck at the top of it's class without question.)